Hues of Rajasthan
Nipun Srivastava’s motorcycle ride around Rajasthan was a smooth one where he walked barefoot, became part of the music and spent a month amongst strangers who he now calls his own
Posted On Sunday, February 24, 2013 at 08:21:42 AM
Sometimes an individual has to take on a mammoth endeavour, to realise what it takes to survive out there, alone. As a travel photographer and writer, I set out on my own milestone trip to Rajasthan.
This vast state titillates the imagination with visions of loitering camels, boundless sand dunes and August forts. To say that it was a dream to ride across these sands and experience what this land has to offer would be an understatement. I headed out alone to repaint my memories from my childhood as the son of an army officer.
Starting off on my mammoth adventure, I entered Rajasthan through Mount Abu and then went on to cover the western region through Barmer and Jaisalmer. From Jaisalmer, I made way to the heart of the state spending time at Jodhpur and Ajmer-Pushkar. I also spent a good five days in the capital city of Jaipur before moving on to Chittorgarh and then finally Udaipur where I also spent a while. It took 28 amazing days to ride across this brilliant landscape of vistas, people and culture. The time one spends alone on one’s motorcycle is the most rejuvenating. All you do is talk to yourself and see things you never thought you’d see and meet people you never thought you’d meet. Jai ho Jaisalmer! Taken atop the sand dunes in western Rajasthan, it represents the spirit of the Thar desert. The economy here revolves around the tourist and the history does well to keep one enthralled.
The landscapes here are overwhelming. Early mornings and evenings are no less than perfect for anyone. Tourist, traveller or local, one just can’t escape the desert’s calm caress. Jaisalmer is a desert town most have heard about but few have really experienced. The whole of Rajasthan is place tailor-made for the wanderer and the likes. As you walk on the sand, desert beetles will crawl up through the sand and greet you with amusing tracks on the surface. Most cultures boast of being hospitable and caring but the folk of Rajasthan truly personify hospitality. One has to admire the people who respect and hold in such high regards of their own culture, music and place of belonging. The city of Jaisalmer is such a departure from the routine that it forces the mind to adapt and ultimately fall in love with its uniqueness. It’s not called the golden city without reason. The city glows golden in the soft evening sunlight. The ride to Jaisalmer is also one of the most beautiful. The blue city visited Jodhpur turned out to be a tough city to like. As I put it “it was coherently chaotic”. Both sides of the coin can be experienced here. The mad rush of city life as well as the peace and tranquillity of the years gone by, both can be taken on.
In the centre of Rajasthan, the city of Jodhpur eggs one on to discover more and look harder. Its beauty isn’t skin deep. It’s under the skin. The layout of the city of Jodhpur tells one a lot of things. Jam packed streets and addresses are contrasted by open spaces and royal buildings. Interestingly, Jodhpur is also known for its broad roads. Don’t be fooled though, the traffic here can give any city a run for its money. The essence of Jodhpur lies in its relationship with the sun. The Mehrangarh fort looks over the Blue city: deliberately getting lost in a city I know nothing about. Stopping every kilometre to ask people directions for the place I want to go to and then from being hopelessly lost to reaching my destination. This was my way of breaking the ice with Jodhpur. Some things spiritual Most will know Pushkar for its fair and religious existence. But that’s hardly what I experienced. Yes, the Pushkar fair was in full swing when I arrived but I realised pretty soon it seemed like an overused formula. Pushkar can be beautiful but that depends on your definition of beauty. For me the best experience in Pushkar was sitting next to the lake with a high vantage point. I watched the sun go down over the lake and with it the Maha aarti that took place about 500 yards away. You can’t get away from Pushkar’s overtly religious vibe. From temple smells to the mid-day warm air at the stadium, you’re in for an experience of sorts. A background of cow/camel/horse dung, a spattering of diesel fumes, some fruits and chai and a garnish of sand makes up the air here. Pushkar is not for the faint hearted traveller. Some thing pink Apart from being the capital of Rajasthan, Jaipur is also the city where time is the most easily spent. Jaipur embraces those who step out of their comfort zone. The city gives you a nice time with wonderful food and brilliant people. The forts in Jaipur are impressive — the Aamer, the Jaigadh and the Nahargarh fort. The sound and light show at the Aamer takes one through the history of Rajasthan in one hour. The nights in Jaipur are best spent exploring the older city and digging into local cuisine. Jaipur is a huge metropolitan; it is easy for a traveller to get discouraged seeing the flamboyant business going on everywhere. Fikar not! Hang in there and persevere with your passion to explore and Jaipur will surprise you in the most exciting of ways. A truly royal touch A quaint and blue town in eastern Rajasthan, Chittorgarh I feel is a much ignored travel destination. Still safe from over-commercialisation, Chittor titillates the senses with its brutal simplicity. Once the capital of Mewar, Chittorgarh is home to the largest fort in Asia. It is a struggle even to take a photograph of the length of the structure. The forts grounds are stoic. One can feel the history here. It is easy to understand the history which was made within these walls. Life still moves on at a slow pace in Chittor but that doesn’t take away from the city’s underexposed brilliance. Right from the Vijay Stambh to the Palace of Queen Padmini, every building is intricate and unique in its own right. For me, the stories from Chittor were the most compelling. Swimming in lake city The city of lakes: Much revered for its luxury hotels and flamboyant tourism, Udaipur can fail to excite the true traveller. A beautiful city no doubt, the fun can be had in exploring the areas surrounding Udaipur. Heading up into the Arravali hills is the first step to having a good time in Udaipur. Heading in to the hills when near Udaipur is a sure fire way to get up close and personal with the landscape. One gets to see Rajasthan’s green side, something which comes as a slight surprise. Close to Udaipur lies the Kumbhalgarh fort. From here one can see the hills dividing the kingdoms of Mewar and Marwar. The fort is one of the most beautiful forts in Rajasthan, especially against the night sky. Playing a perfect host to The Milky Way Galaxy, the story of Kumbhalgarh and its sound and light shows takes one through the life of Mewar. |
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